Building a better, faster, stronger fluffy

I don't have much going on at work today so here are some of our upgrade options.

Tires:
245/40/17 seems to be the widest reasonably cheap tire size. RS3s are $157ea

Wheels:
XJR 17x8s should bolt up without issue and are in the low $105ea at Pacific Auto Salvage, Inc.


XK8 revolver 17x8s will require 8-10mm spacers but can be found for $85ea


Or we could go with a set of torque thrust knockoff 17x9s at $600 a set


Camber:
This is where things start to get tricky. The 98-03 XJ8 subframe has adjustable camber, but the engine mounts won't match up. I don't think it would be hard to fab up some new engine mounts, but we haven't proven to be the best fabricators.
Other options are custom machined upper control arms or custom bushings

Engine modifications:
The muffler delete is a given, not that it will add any power
Intake manifolds are an option
We have most of what we need to convert to the megasquirt engine management system
Turbos could possibly be installed
Headers are going to be a long term project


Weight reduction:
Thinning the wiring harness
Remove undercoating
Remove excess sheet metal
Less cheeseburgers

Steering:
The XJR has a faster steering rack that will bolt up

Brakes:
Fix the ABS

Manual transmission:
Bell housing - used lakewood chevy bell housing drilled for the v12 ~$200
Flywheel - 13lb Aluminum $325 http://thmotorsports.com/fidanza/fidanza-flywheel-aluminum/119531/i-165466.aspx
Transmission -
     Cheap - T5 from a v6 Camaro ~$250
     Durable - Super T-10 or Muncie 4 speed ~$700
     Bulletproof - T56 from LS1 Camaro ~$1700
Clutch pedal $90 http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-13574/10002/-1
Clutch master cylinder $50 http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-2636/10002/-1
Clutch slave cylinder ~$80
Clutch ~$400
Driveshaft mods $?

Tires, yes.
Wheels, yes. New wheels may be a better idea than used.
Let's leave the subframe alone for a couple races but we can plan.
Muffler delete, hell yes
I am all for better breathing. Whatever we can do for not too much money.
Megasquirt and turbo after we have a few races finished and shake out all the bugs.
Yes to all weight reduction. Dieting is probably the easiest so I'll start on that one now.
Steering rack is not necessary in my opinion. It will just be added cost and time to install.
ABS, hell yes

I agree except for the camber part, I think that is something that we need to get sorted out for the first race.

So, I just had a conversation with my father about the Super T-10, and he brought up a couple things (if you know this already, disregard):


-Is the crank already drilled for a pilot bearing/bushing?
-Is your T-10 fine or coarse splined?
-Rebuild kits are cheap ($90-120)
-Internal components are being manufactured by Richmond now, but can be hard to come by.
-He may be selling his complete with bellhousing, clutch, pedal and Hurst shift kit ($1000+)
-Super T-10 is very, very sensitive to installation misalignment; it requires offset bushings and run-out measurement to prevent binding
-His opinion is that it isn't the most user friendly transmission for this type of swap, whereas Muncie units are more 'flexible'

-Mike