The Million Dollar Jag

Cass -
You're right to say that none of the websites look legit. I wasn't hesitant to spend money on this chip until I saw the websites. I don't have an answer for what to do. Can you give me a link where we got the idea of this chip from so I can read them?

Alan-
Even though it's going to be a track/beater I (and your neighbors) would love to see that thing get a paint job, no matter how cheap. I hope it drives nice though and I am sure it will be a blast once you get done with it.

The ECU claimed to be programmable. I wonder what it would cost to take it to a speed shop and ask them to bump all of the partial throttle, mid to high rpm fuel table values by 10%.

One of the more legit places that I've ended up is here: http://www.jagweb.com/aj6eng/

I made some progress with spring spacers/stiffeners.

This one is purchasable ready to go and has some compliance built in. http://www.olx.com.sg/spring-stiffener-cushion-for-sale-iid-88238921

This other design caught my eye: https://2img.net/r/ihimizer/i/00001998ff.jpg/ And lead me to design this: [img]%20%20Uploaded%20with%20ImageShack.us[/img]

Either design would be made from some left over 3/8" 6061 Al plate that I have laying around the shop. The basic shape would be waterjet cut. Then I would drill the holes, cut the part in half and tap the appropriate holes. I figure each spring would require at least two.

thats not a bad idea. It should raise the car a bit while adding some decent spring rate.

and ugly how dare you

The rules in regards to noise.

3.12: Noise Limit: Our noise limit is 92dB @50 feet @ W.O.T. What that boils down to is no
straight pipes allowed; please use at least one muffler or resonator. With these heaps, a single
Cherry Bomb or Supertrapp is usually plenty.

spring compressorhttp://jaguarxj40project.blogspot.com/2010/06/front-spring-compressor-tool.html

Could you give me an idea of what the diameter and length of that "T" bar at the top of the threaded rod is?

This might be at least a bit useful.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/41267922/Haynes-Jaguar-Xj6-86-94

Ed / Cassidy wrote:Could you give me an idea of what the diameter and length of that "T" bar at the top of the threaded rod is?

your guess is as good as mine

Alan, here is my current plan or this coming weekend's work. In order of importance.

Brakes:
Install front rotors
Install front pads
Install new inner pads on rear brakes
Flush brake fluid

Cooling:
Remove and gut remaining thermostat
Remove heater core and remaining HVAC system
Splice heater hoses together

Intake:
Determine routing of intakes, length of straights, angle of corner connectors, necessary rubber connectors, mounting points
Purchase necessary parts and install them

Bonus:
Cut out remaining cats and determine length of exhaust pipe we need
Install additional spring stiffeners
Design and install heat shields for trans coolers

I was working on the design for the front spacers and ran into a problem. With the coils being 0.5" or closer together, we will not be able to slip the inner portion of the Al spacers into the springs. I have played with a few different designs in my head and not come up with any that I think would work.

What I could come up with, though, was to wind rubber hose around the coils such that it either completely eliminates the gap between coils or almost completely eliminates it.

The hose would be sliced along one side and then slipped over the coils with the slit facing inwards. Hose claps would be spaced around to keep the hose on the coils. If the hoses were placed on neighboring coils it should nearly eliminate the gap between them.

I went through McMaster-Carr and found three possible materials/sizes.

Go here: http://www.mcmaster.com/# and then enter the following part numbers: 8628K69 or 5288K34 or 5288K34

I'm not sure what the problem would be with getting the spacers in there.

The space between the coils is 1/2". The inner spacer section is 5/8" x 1" x 3". It will not fit through. If you want, I can make a test blank to see if it would fit.

Did you get the brake pads ordered?

Cass -
I see what you mean with not fitting. A test blank would be a smart idea, but the only true solution I can think of is to take the springs back off and slip the inner portion of the spacers inside the bottom of the coil, taking off as little as possible and then reassemble and attach the spacers. That would mean we would have to use the spring compressor again. The hose could work too, but we would want the thickest we can fit on there.

Unless we attach the spacers to the coil while it is completely uncompressed (and subsequently raising the car several inches) we are going to have a very hard time handling the inner spacer through the 1/2" gap between the coils. Holding onto the inner spacer to be able to run a bolt into it will be next to impossible.

So as it turns out I am not going to be here this weekend.
I did however get the brakes, air filter and fan.
who would have thought that jaguar pads in a nascar compound would be something they keep in stock

Is your roommate going to be home? I would like to get some work done on the Jag as we only have three weekends left in this month to finish the car.

Also, did the carpet arrive?

I can leave the side door open.
The carpet is here but i realized it is a really bad idea with the leaking washing machine and all

I can lock the side door when I leave. Also, do you want me to make the carpet disappear, or do you want to hold onto it until the washer is fixed?

If Infineon doesn't work out for March 5th/6th, we can always go back to Thunderhill to test shake out the bugs. It won't be the same as driving it at Infineon, but its relatively cheap and it will get the car on the track. The Saturday is full, which leaves just Sunday but it is almost full so we will have to act in the next day or two. It's only $125 so I can drive the Jag for the day, but I would recommend Alan doing so since he has more experience diagnosing problems.

http://www.ncracing.org/events.php

I was looking at the Infineon track day and didn't see where it required experienced drivers.

When you go to register, the options for which run group state...


Low Car Count ((Half the number of cars. Fore mature, safety conscious drivers wanting wide open track - $380 will be charged.)) SOLD OUT! Click here to get on the waiting list.

Red (For ADVANCED drivers comfortable with open passing and race-like conditions.) Insufficient experience; Please contact us to select this run group.

Gold (For HIGH-INTERMEDIATE and slower ADVANCED level drivers. Passing is Open on straights, Point-By in turns.) Insufficient experience; Please contact us to select this run group.

Exclusive SOLD OUT! Click here to get on the waiting list.

Radical Cup West SOLD OUT! Click here to get on the waiting list.


I think that we should be able to qualify for the high-intermediate group, but will probably be getting passed a lot. I guess that doesn't matter though since we are just out there to shake down the car. Shall I register for it, or does someone else want to drive it?

Is the fee $380? That's pretty steep. $125, even at a different track, is much more reasonable. Also, they are both about equidistant from Sac so fuel costs do not come into the equation.

It's $380 to be on the "low car count" run group. It is $230 on saturday and $215 for sunday for the other run groups. Thunderhill will NCRC will be much cheaper at only $125. The only downside is that it won't be infineon, but that won't matter too much for shaking out the bugs. My vote is for Thunderhill. As I said before, I'm willing to drive, or I'll take the MR2 while someone else drives the Jag.

Sunday is almost full, so we need to register asap. Alan, are you taking the Jag? You have the most experience diagnosing cars.